LAST YEAR, Tomos Parry opened a second restaurant in east London, up the street from his Michelin-starred Brat. To meet pandemic-era demands, Brat at Climpson’s Arch seats guests in the open air, under a railway arch, where Mr. Parry cooks over live fire.
The outdoor grill’s smoldering coals have since roasted countless thick-skinned vegetables, slow and low, until their flesh yields to the gentlest prodding. That way of cooking produced this roasted squash salad, Mr. Parry’s final Slow Food Fast recipe.